A numerical scale reflecting the balance between acid and alkalinity in the pool. pH 6 = high acid, pH 8 = high alkaline. Recommended pH is 7.2 – 7.6. Below 7 staining can occur, above 7.6 sanitisers don’t work, algae blooms nicely and scale formation is promoted.



A chemical that kills germs in pool water. Usually chlorine but there are others. Adequate sanitiser levels ensure a healthy pool.

Shock treatment

A large dose of sanitiser applied when pool is stressed due to increased chemical demand, weather or heavy bather loads. Must be done weekly to assist normal sanitiser dosing and ensure pool water is hygienic.


Algae is a plant which loves high pH levels. Not dangerous but unsightly, easily controlled by adequate sanitiser levels and correct pH.


Stabiliser (“sun-protection”) 

Ultra violet rays destroy chlorine. Stabiliser holds onto chlorine to protect it from the sun, but too much interferes with sanitiser performance (see Stabiliser “Balance”).

Stabiliser “Balance”

The level of stabiliser in the pool. Ideal range is 30ppm – 50ppm. Overuse of stabilised chlorine leads to imbalance and poor sanitation.

High stabiliser levels are known as “Chlorine lock”.


The jet where water returns to the pool from the filter.


The suction point where water exits pool to go through the filter (where the pool cleaner hose is plugged in).

Multiport valve

Handle on a sand filter that directs the flow of water through the circulation system. (Filter, backwash etc.)



The process by which dirt, leaves and other material is removed from pool water. (Sand filters are the most common)

Suction leak

A point where air is sucked into the filter system. Suction leaks reduce filtration and circulation efficiency.

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) 

The amount of suspended chemical and other material in pool water. High TDS interferes with chemical action in the pool.



The process whereby dissolved organic material like body fluids, oils are destroyed or “burnt up”. Chlorine is a powerful oxidiser.

Total Alkalinity (TA)

A scale measuring the ability of the water to resist big changes in pH, known as “pH-bounce”. 

Ideal range = 80 – 120ppm.

“Free” chlorine

Not all chlorine in water is “free” to perform its intended function. Only Free Chlorine works. Incorrect pH, suspended dirt and excessive stabiliser levels can inhibit the availability of free chlorine. Ideal range = 1 – 3ppm.

  • Calculate your Pool’s Volume: 

Length x Width x Ave. Depth x 1000 =

  • Backwash your filter: Switch pump off. Unplug APC. Empty weir basket.Rotate filter handle to “backwash” position. Switch pump on, and run until the water in the little sight glass is completely clear. Switch pump off. Rotate filter handle to “rinse”, and switch pump on again. Rinse for 30 seconds. Switch off pump and reset handle to “filter”. Continue as normal.    

  • Change filter sand: Check if filter is 2-bag or 3-bag, and buy enough replacement sand. Switch pump off. Open filter and remove all sand manually. Take care not to damage underdrain fingers. Add fresh sand until level is 75% full .Backwash and rinse for 2-3 minutes to clear residual dust. Set multiport valve to “filter” and start pump. Use AQUACURE BLUE BUDDIES filter gel to assist with filtration after start-up.  

  • Check for Suction Leaks: If your APC isn’t performing even after backwashing, black algae growth is persistent, or you see bubbles streaming in through the aimflow, you may have a suction leak. Scrutinise your a) multiport valve o-ring and pipe joints b) your pump lid o-ring, c)  APC hoses or d) your underground piping. Then fix it – it costs more in the long term if you don’t.

1. Poolcare is SIMPLE. 

Don’t let anyone tell you any different. Filtration, correct pH & steady sanitizer levels is all you need to know. Everything else is smoke and mirrors.

2. Granular chlorine is wasteful. 

Don’t be fooled by “price per kg” comparisons – granules evaporate fast so you lose much of what you add. Disposable floaters release just enough chlorine so you waste less and it’s more convenient.

3. Filter, Filter, Filter. 

Less suspended dirt = low chemical demand and safe, hygienic water. Summer: minimum 12 hrs a day. Winter minimum 8 – 12 hrs a day. Good filtration costs less than chemical treatment.

4. Balance your pH. 

Balanced pH = chemical efficiency, which makes life tough for algae and reduces the risk of staining caused by metals and minerals.

5. Shock treat. 

Shock treat regularly. Chemical demand in water fluctuates continuously, and no matter what you use, standard chemical treatments can’t cope.

6. All-in-one “cures” don’t work – period. 

Many “miracle” cures have come and gone but none have stood the test of time. Stick to the basics and your pool will be an asset, not a liability, so avoid shortcuts.

7. Outsmart your pool. 

By using a clarifier regularly you remove a lot of suspended matter that interferes with your regular treatment program. Remove the waste, and you’ll have a sparkling pool that costs less to run.  

Promary Causes: Incorrect pH, insufficient chlorine levels.


  1. Test pH and correct as instructed by your Test Kit.

  2. Backwash your filter, and rinse. 

  3. Then shock treat with TURBO SHOCK as directed

Note: Severe infestation may require an algaecide eg: AQUACURE MICROSHOCK or ONE SHOT Add according to directions before resuming normal chlorine treatment.

Primary Causes:

Bad filtration – that’s why it always comes back! Black algae typically accumulate in quiet spots where circulation is poor. Good filtration prevents black algae spores from settling on pool surfaces. 

Secondary Causes:

Insufficient chemical treatment and incorrect pH.


  1. A tough problem, may need regular attention. 

  2. Test pH and correct as instructed by your Test Kit.

  3. Brush vigorously.

  4. If used correctly AQUACURE MICROSHOCK or ONE SHOT  algaecides will remove it. To ensure it doesn’t come back take a good look at  your pump, filter sand and general circulation. If used correctly AQUACURE MICROSHOCK or ONE SHOT  algaecides will remove it. To ensure it doesn’t come back take a good look at  your pump, filter sand and general circulation.

Primary Causes:

Overstabilisation (a.k.a. “chlorine lock”) due to overuse of stabilised chlorine products. Stabiliser levels are out of Balance.



  1. Test stabiliser levels. If above 100ppm drain 30% – 50% of pool by setting pump to “waste”, then top up. Ensure stabiliser balance remains between 30ppm and 50ppm. 

  2. Adjust pH.

  3. Shock Treat.

  4. To prevent in future use AQUACURE non-stabilised chlorine products for at least 4 months of the year.

Primary Causes:

Very low pH causes dissolved metals to come out of solution, making them visible to the eye.



Buy a metal remover at your supermarket and follow instructions before adjusting total alkalinity and pH to correct levels. Then add AQUACURE TURBOCLEAR clarifiers to remove bonded metals.

Primary Causes:

When water goes from very low to high pH levels in a short period of time, dissolved metals may precipitate out of solution and accumulate on pool surfaces. This can be exacerbated by high calcium levels in the pool, usually due to long term use of granular calcium-based chlorine



Metal removing products may help, but if its too bad you can: a) drain pool and acid wash the walls. Or b) add hydrochloric acid until metals re-dissolve – THEN; add metal remover BEFORE lifting pH again. Use AQUACURE TURBOCLEAR to assist with filtration after treatment.

Primary Causes:

Could be high pH levels, high total alkalinity (TA), inefficient filtration/circulation, dust build-up or high bather loads.



  1. Test and correct pH, TA or chlorine levels if necessary. To fix FAST, 

  2. Add AQUACURE TURBO CLEAR clarifier as directed. To prevent on an ongoing basis, add AQUACURE  FLOCCULENT GEL BLOCKS once a month.

Primary Causes:

High pH or INSUFFICIENT chlorine (yes, that’s correct!) causes the formation of CHLORAMINES that give off bad odour and irritate skin and eyes.



  1. Test pH level and correct if necessary. 

  2. Shock treat with AQUACURE TURBO SHOCK as directed.

Primary Causes:

Accumulation of calcium deposits from long term use of granular chlorine, body fluids, suntan oils, dirt etc.



  1. Use an ACID-BASED brick & tile cleaner, a stiff brush and some elbow grease.

  2. Add AQUACURE TURBOSHOCK to super chlorinate the pool water.

Note:Severe infestation may require an algaecide eg: AQUACURE MICROSHOCK (750ml) or ONE SHOT (2lt) Add according to directions before resuming normal chlorine treatment.

  • Make sure your hoses seal properly and don’t have tears or holes in them.

  • Hoses develop “memory” over time, which can restrict the movement of your cleaner. To prevent this, remove hoses every few months and place them in the sun until they’re soft and pliable, then reassemble them in a different order.


  • Make sure your APC valve is in good condition.

  • When replacing a section of hose, always fit new section closest to cleaner.

  • The total length of hose used should be from the weir to the furthest point of the pool – plus one additional length (this may vary).

  •  The direction of your aimflow affects your APC’s movement, so adjust the jet until you get the optimal result.  

  • Q: What is stabiliser “Balance”? 

    A: The concentration of pool stabiliser in your water.

    Q: What is “stabiliser”? 

    A: Stabiliser = cyanuric acid, a chemical that protects chlorine from the sun’s rays. Stabiliser is effective at concentrations of 30ppm – 50ppm.

    Q: Can I add as much stabiliser as I want? 

    A: No. Stabiliser is soluble, like sugar, and concentrations build up over time until it interferes with sanitation. This is called “chlorine lock”, where your pool might look clean – but isn’t hygienic. 

    Q: How does stabiliser build up? 

    A: Through overuse of stabilised chlorine products. 

    Q: How do I fix “chlorine locked” water?

    A: By draining 30% – 50% of your pool and topping up with fresh water. 

    Q: Can I avoid this? 

    A: Yes, use non-stabilised chlorine. If you prefer stabilised products then alternate with non-stabilised chlorine products (like the AQUACURE KLEENKLOR “BALANCE” FLOATER) for at least 4 months of the year.

  • The difference between using granular chlorine and salt is  convenience – not chemistry. Salt pools are chlorine pools.
    So which is better? The choice yours, but consider the facts:

    • If you factor in the capital cost, salt is NOT cheaper than chlorine (especially if you use a disposable floater).

    • Salt is not a complete fix. Salt pools still need regular shock treatment with granular chlorine, Turbo Shock or other oxidisers.

    • Salt equipment needs ongoing maintenance, which can be costly. Do your research carefully before you buy. 

    • Only use NSPI approved salt.

    • Maintain salt levels at 3000 – 5000ppm.

    • Dirty or worn electrodes can give low chlorine readings

    • Clean electrodes by soaking in a 1:10 solution of hydrochloric acid & water.